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81 सूत्रम् _sūtram
सूत्रम् [सूत्र्-अच्]1 A thread, string, line, cord; पुष्पमालानुषङ्गेण सूत्रं शिरसि धार्यते Subhās.; मणौ वज्रसमुत्कीर्णे सूत्रस्येवास्ति मे गतिः R.1.4.-2 A fibre; सुराङ्गना कर्षति खण्डिताग्रात् सूत्रं मृणालादिव राजहंसी V.1.18; Ku.1.4.-3 A wire.-4 A collection of threads.-5 The sacred thread or sacrificial cord worn by members of the first three classes; शिखासूत्रवान् ब्राह्मणः Tarka K.; विप्रत्वे सूत्रमेव हि Bhāg.12.2.3.-6 The string or wire of a puppet.-7 A short rule or precept, an aphorism.-8 A short or concise technical sentence used as a memorial rule; it is thus defined:-- स्वल्पाक्षरमसंदिग्धं सारवद् विश्वतोमुखम् । अस्तोभमनवद्यं च सूत्रं सूत्रविदो विदुः.-9 Any work or manu- al containing such aphoristic rules; e. g. मानवकल्पसूत्र, आपस्तम्बसूत्र, गृह्यसूत्र &c.-1 A rule, canon, decree (in law).-11 A girdle; वासः ससूत्रं लघुमारुतो$हरद् भवस्य देवस्य किलानुपश्यतः Bhāg.8.12.23.-12 A line, stroke.-13 A sketch, plan; त्वमेव धर्मार्थदुघाभिपत्तये दक्षेण सूत्रेण ससर्जिथा- ध्वरम् Bhāg.4.6.44.-14 Indication, prelude; विशङ्क्य सूत्रं पुरुषायितस्य तद् भविष्यतो$स्मायि तदा तदालिभिः N.16.15.-Comp. -अध्यक्षः superintendent of weaving; Kau. A.2.-आत्मन् a. having the nature of a string or thread. (-m.) the soul.-आली a string of beads &c. worn round the neck, a necklace.-कण्ठः 1 a Brāhmaṇa.-2 a pigeon, dove.-3 a wag-tail.-कर्मन् n. carpentry; अथ भूमिप्रदेशज्ञाः सूत्रकर्मविशारदाः Rām.2.8.1. ˚विशेषज्ञः a weaver; Rām.2.83.12.-कारः, -कृत् m.1 an author or composer of Sūtras.-2 a carpenter.-कोणः, -कोणकः a small drum shaped like an hour- glass (डमरु).-कोशः a skein of yarn.-क्रीडा a parti- cular game with strings (one of the 64 kalās).-गण्डिका a kind of stick used by weavers in spinning threads.-ग्रन्थः a book of a phorisms.-ग्राह a. seizing a thread.-ग्राहिन् m. a draftsman, an architect.-चरणम् N. of a class of Charaṇas or Vedic schools which introduced various Sūtra-works.-तन्तुः 1 a thread, string.-2 perseverance, energy.-तर्कुटी a distaff, spindle.-दरिद्र a. 'poor in threads', having a small number of threads, thread-bare; अयं पटः सूत्रदरिद्रतां गतः Mk.2.9.-धरः, -धारः 1 'the thread- holder', a stage-manager, the principal actor who arranges the cast of characters and instructs them, and takes a prominent part in the Prastāvanā or pre- lude; he is thus defined:-- नाट्यस्य यदनुष्ठानं तत् सूत्रं स्यात् सबीजकम् । रङ्गदैवतपूजाकृत् सूत्रधार इति स्मृतः ॥-2 a carpen- ter, an artisan.-3 the author of a set of aphorisms.-4 an epithet of Indra.-धृक् m.1 an architect.-2 a stage-manager.-पातः applying the measuring line.-पिटकः N. of one of the three collections of Buddhistic writings.-पुष्पः the cotton plant.-प्रोत a. fastened. with wires (as puppets).-भिद् m. a tailor.-भृत् m. = सूत्रधार q. v.-यन्त्रम् 1 'a thread-machine', shuttle.-2 a weaver's loom; सूत्रयन्त्रजविशिष्टचेष्टयाश्चर्यसञ्जिबहुशालभञ्जिकः N.18.13.-3 a shuttle.-वापः weaving (threads).-वीणा a kind of lute.-वेष्टनम् 1 a weaver's shuttle.-2 the act of weaving.-शाखम् the body.-स्थानम् (in medic. works) the first general section (treating of the physician, disease, remedies &c). -
82 ткацкий
прил.weaver's, weaving -
83 Vibrator
A movable bar on a loom over which yarn passes during weaving, the bar being caused to move inwards, e.g., towards the healds, in order to slacken the warp threads passing over it. When used as a slackener or easer for doup yarns in leno and gauze weaving there must be sufficient movement to allow the doup threads to cross to the other side of the standard threads. Vibrating backrests are used extensively in plain weaving to maintain a uniform tension on the warp threads. -
84 Crossley, Joseph
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. Halifax (?), Englandd. September 1868 Halifax (?), England[br]English patentee of successful power-driven carpet looms.[br]Joseph Crossley was the second son of John, the founder of a carpet-weaving firm in Halifax. He did not figure much in public life for he was essentially a business man. It was under his direct superintendence that most of the extensions at Dean Clough Mill, Halifax, were built, and to a very great degree the successful working of the vast establishment that these mills became, covering fifteen acres, was due to him. In 1864 the firm became a limited-liability company, worth over a million pounds c.1880.The company's vital patents for the power-driven carpet looms were taken out in his name. The first, in 1850 in the names of Joseph Crossley, George Collier and James Hudson, was for weaving carpets in a manner similar to the way velvet was woven, with the pile warp threads passing over wires. After a couple of picks of weft, a wire was inserted from the side over the main warp threads but under the pile warp threads. These were lowered and another couple of weft shoots bound in the pile warp. The pile was cut with a knife running along a slot in the top of the wire, and then the wire was removed. There was a further patent in 1851, in the name of Joseph Crossley alone, for improvements in the manufacture of Brussels and cut-pile carpets. An interesting part of this patent was the use of a partly coloured warp to make patterns in the carpets. These vital patents gave the Crossley brothers their dominance in carpet weaving; production on their power looms was six times quicker than by hand. Like his brothers, one of whom was Francis Crossley, he was a great benefactor to charities. The brothers built the Crossley Orphan Home at a cost of £50,000 and endowed it with about £3,000 a year.[br]Bibliography1850, British patent no. 13,267 (power-driven carpet loom).1851, British patent no. 13,474 (improvements in manufacture of Brussels and cut-pile carpets).Further ReadingJ.Hogg (ed.), Fortunes Made in Business, London (contains an account of the firm of John Crossley \& Sons).RLH -
85 Pääbo, Max
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. Estonia fl. 1950s Sweden[br]Estonian inventor of one of the most successful looms, in which the weft is sent across the warp by a jet of air.[br]The earliest patent for using a jet of air to propel a shuttle across a loom was granted to J.C. Brooks in 1914. A different method was tried by E.H.Ballou in 1929, but the really important patent was taken out by Max Pääbo, a refugee from Estonia. He exhibited his machine in Sweden in 1951, weaving cotton cloth 80 cm (31 1/2 in.) wide at a speed of 350 picks per minute, but it was not widely publicized until 1954. One shown in Manchester in 1958 ran at 410 picks per minute while weaving 90 cm (35 1/2 in.) cloth. His looms were called "Maxbo" after him. They had no shuttle; instead a jet of air drove a measured amount of weft drawn from a supply package across the warp threads. Efficient control of the airstream was the main reason for its success; not only was weaving much quicker, but it was also much quieter than traditional methods, and as the warp was nearly vertical the looms took up little space. Manufacture of these looms in Sweden ceased in 1962, but development continued in other countries.[br]Further ReadingJ.J.Vincent, 1980, Shuttle less Looms, Manchester (a good account of the development of modern looms).RLH -
86 жаккардовый ткацкий станок
1) General subject: Jacquard, Jacquard loom2) Textile: Jacquard machine, loom for fancy weavingУниверсальный русско-английский словарь > жаккардовый ткацкий станок
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87 Bandwebmaschine
f < textil> ■ narrow fabric weaving machine; narrow-fabric loom; ribbon loom -
88 Schützenwebmaschine
f < textil> ■ shuttle weaving machine; shuttle-loom; traditional shuttle-type loom -
89 HLEIN
f., pl. ar, [Goth. hlains = βουνός, Luke iii. 5; akin to Engl. lean, Gr. κλίνειν]:— a rock projecting like a pier into the sea (= hlaðberg), freq. in western Icel.; lenda við hleinina, festa skipið við hleinarnar. hleina-kræða, u, f. a crust of moss on sea rocks, Bb. 2. 13.II. [Engl. loom, qs. loon? the A. S. form would be hlân, which however is not recorded]:— the loom in the old perpendicular weaving, Björn. -
90 Dobby Machines
These are exceedingly useful machines for forming the shed in weaving, since they can be used for both simple and complicated weaves. There are many types in use, most of which are negative acting in so far as they only lift the healds, springs being used beneath the healds to bring them down again after being lifted by the dobby. In the cotton trade 16 up 20 jacks is usual. Dobbies in common use are known as single lift, double lift, negative, positive, open shed, closed shed, and crossborder. Single Lift - In this type there is a single knife or griffe in use to raise the heald stave. The whole of the shafts return to their original position after each pick. A fresh selection of staves to be raised is made for each pick. Looms fitted with this dobby run slower than others, about 140 picks per minute. Double Lift - These machines are fitted with double selecting and lifting parts which move at half the speed of the loom. They give an open or semi-open shed. The speed of the loom is considerably more than for the single-lift type. Crossborder - This machine is used when headings or a change of weave is required as for bordered handkerchiefs, serviettes, towels, etc. Positive - Dobby machines which make an open shed and positively lift and depress the heald staves as required by the design. Negative - Dobbies which only lift the heald staves, and require springs or other means to move the staves to the bottom position. Centre Shed - Every thread of the warp is moved for every new shed. The shed opens from the middle. Some healds ascend and the others descend. Closed Shed - So termed because all the warp threads are brought to one level after each succeeding pick as in single-lift machines. Open Shed - The type generally used for automatic looms, also the double-lift machines. After a heald stave is lifted it remains up until it is required to be down again. The warp threads constantly form two lines, upper and lower, and the only changes are when threads move from line to the other. Semi-open Shed - This shed has a stationary bottom line, and to make changes, threads pass from the top to the bottom, or from the bottom to the top. The threads which remain up for more than one pick in succession only fall halfway and then go to the top again. -
91 Double Velvet
Made by having the pile warp stretched between two layers of foundation cloths; a knife cuts the pile in the middle between the two layers. It is recorded that this idea was first worked in Zurich during the 18th century - Then in Lyons. Martin, a manufacturer at Tarare, applied the idea to plushes. During the early part of the 19th century Davis invented a double-velvet loom. In 1838 Guillot, Lyons, invented a double-velvet loom with vertical warp, the two layers of cloth being separated as the weaving progressed. -
92 Pongee
The real pongee is woven in Northern China on hand looms from the silk of wild cocoons. Almost always of pale or dark ecru, but sometimes dyed in colours to meet a fashion. The warp is always finer than the weft and more even, the weft having nubs characteristic of wild silk yarn which forms a crossrib effect with the many nubs scattered in the fabric. The name means " own loom " in Chinese, signifying that the piece was woven on a house's own loom in guarantee of which certain Chinese characters are stamped on the cloth. Another explanation of the name is that it derives from pang-chih (Cantonese, " pung-che ") which is the name of the wheel on which the silk is reeled from the cocoon. A very fine cloth is also made by the natives of many parts of India from natural coloured silk warp and weft, plain weave, very fine sett, such as 150 ends and 150 picks per inch. The Lancashire pongee is made from the best of cotton and mercerised, dyed and schreinered. A variety is 35-in., 120 yards, 98 ends and 104 picks per inch, 80's warp, 120's weft. British silk pongees are "woven from yarn in its gummed state and degummed after weaving. When dyed and finished the handle and brilliance of the cloth are excellent. A typical cloth is made 80 ends and 80 picks per inch, 26 denier singles warp, 90 denier singles weft. Pongees are very fine fabrics, but many muslins are called pongees and the quality varies according to the market, such as 98 ends and 104 picks per inch, 80's warp, 120's weft, all Egyptian, home trade; 74 ends and 74 picks per inch, 60's warp, 60's weft, all Egyptian, South America; 60 ends and 60 picks per inch, 34's warp, 32's weft, all American, Java and China. -
93 עומדים
עוֹמְדִים, עוֹמְדִיןm. pl. (preced.) 1) upright loom. Neg. II, 4 כאורגת בע׳ in the position of one weaving at an upright loom; Sifra Thazr., Neg., Par. 3, ch. IV (not בעומר׳); Lev. R. s. 15 בעמרים (corr. acc.); Yalk. ib. 551 (corr. acc.). 2) side-pieces of a ladder. Tosef.Kel.B. Mets.III, 13 אחר הע׳ the material of the side-pieces decides (v. עֲדָשָׁה 4). -
94 עומדין
עוֹמְדִים, עוֹמְדִיןm. pl. (preced.) 1) upright loom. Neg. II, 4 כאורגת בע׳ in the position of one weaving at an upright loom; Sifra Thazr., Neg., Par. 3, ch. IV (not בעומר׳); Lev. R. s. 15 בעמרים (corr. acc.); Yalk. ib. 551 (corr. acc.). 2) side-pieces of a ladder. Tosef.Kel.B. Mets.III, 13 אחר הע׳ the material of the side-pieces decides (v. עֲדָשָׁה 4). -
95 עוֹמְדִים
עוֹמְדִים, עוֹמְדִיןm. pl. (preced.) 1) upright loom. Neg. II, 4 כאורגת בע׳ in the position of one weaving at an upright loom; Sifra Thazr., Neg., Par. 3, ch. IV (not בעומר׳); Lev. R. s. 15 בעמרים (corr. acc.); Yalk. ib. 551 (corr. acc.). 2) side-pieces of a ladder. Tosef.Kel.B. Mets.III, 13 אחר הע׳ the material of the side-pieces decides (v. עֲדָשָׁה 4). -
96 עוֹמְדִין
עוֹמְדִים, עוֹמְדִיןm. pl. (preced.) 1) upright loom. Neg. II, 4 כאורגת בע׳ in the position of one weaving at an upright loom; Sifra Thazr., Neg., Par. 3, ch. IV (not בעומר׳); Lev. R. s. 15 בעמרים (corr. acc.); Yalk. ib. 551 (corr. acc.). 2) side-pieces of a ladder. Tosef.Kel.B. Mets.III, 13 אחר הע׳ the material of the side-pieces decides (v. עֲדָשָׁה 4). -
97 заправочный расчёт ткани
Textile: cloth setting, loom particulars, weaving particulars, weaving planУниверсальный русско-английский словарь > заправочный расчёт ткани
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98 ткацкое оборудование
1) Engineering: weaving machinery2) Textile: cloth-making machinery, loom machinery, weaving equipmentУниверсальный русско-английский словарь > ткацкое оборудование
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99 ткацкий
1. textile2. weaver; weaving -
100 Back
The underside of a cloth as woven in the loom. Some cloths are woven face down for ease in weaving; as, for instance, warp satins, in which the lift is 4 / 1, by weaving face down, only one thread is lifted and four remain down. The pattern in a fancy cloth will always indicate the face, and so will the finish.
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