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81 China Gum Cloth
A French-made fabric from silk warp and weft, 23-in. to 24-in. wide. It is printed with black spots on a self-coloured ground, or blue on white. It is woven in water from Japanese gum silk. -
82 Foulard De Chine
A French-made fabric from silk warp and weft, 23-in. to 24-in. wide. It is printed with black spots on a self-coloured ground, or blue on white. It is woven in water from Japanese gum silk. ———————— Same as China gum cloth. -
83 Chine (Shadow Cretonnes)
A plain weave fabric made with fine yarn, with a printed warp and white weft. The printing is blurred, and gives an effect as if the colour had run (see Cretonnes)Dictionary of the English textile terms > Chine (Shadow Cretonnes)
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84 Corsicaine
A silk dress fabric of French make. The warp is printed with designs in small squares set diagonally on a black or dark colour ground. -
85 Crepe Beatrice
A crepe fabric with a very narrow warp stripe, also printed (registered) -
86 Crepe Romaine
A very fine all-silk crepe cloth made with hard-twisted yarns about 13/15 denier. A 50-in. cloth gives 39/40-in. when finished. The weave is 2 X 2 matt. Both warp and weft are woven two right and two reverse twist. There are from 100 to 120 ends and 90 to 110 picks per inch. The fabric is generally piece-dyed and finished with 20 to 25 per cent weighting. A cheaper cloth is made with cotton warp and rayon weft and either plain, dyed or printed. It is used for cheap linings. -
87 Crepe-De-Chine
A style of crepe, plain, figured or printed, exceedingly soft or drapy, woven with a fine silk warp, and open band and cross band tightly twisted worsted weft, which shrinks to a permanent crinkled effect when finished. A lustre is always visible owing to the fine silk warp. The weft is twisted the reverse way to the warp. Some crepe-de-Chines are made from ordinary hard-twisted warp, in these styles the weft used is usually two picks weft way, and two picks twist way spun. Also a plain weave all-silk fabric made from very fine yarns, about 26 to 30 denier. The warp is raw silk, ranging from 200 to 300 ends per inch, with 72 to 90 picks of hard-twist crepe weft. The weft is two right and two reverse. A 44-in. cloth will give 39/40-in. finished. Turns per inch in the weft range from 40 to 70. A cotton crepe-de-Chine is made 41-in. wide, 104 ends and 64 picks per inch, 2/80's T., 80's crepe weft. Its appearance and draping quality are much inferior to a silk crepe-de-Chine. -
88 Crimp Fabrics
The term includes such types as the "blister" and the "crepon." These fabrics are used for the making of dress goods, and can be produced in five different ways, namely: (a) by making suitable combinations of slack and tight weaves; (b) unequal warp tension in weaving, the crimp forming warp threads being allowed to weave very slack; (c) by combining two materials having a marked dissimilarity of shrinkage power during wet finishing, i.e., botany wool and mohair; (d) by modifying the weave structure in such a manner as to drop some picks from the main fabric and allow them to float on the back, the effectiveness of this method is enhanced by using a hard-twisted, single weft yarn to assist the contraction; (e) chemical means, such as is produced by printing the cloth in stripes with caustic soda of about 20 per cent strength, thickened with some substance such as starch. The cloth shrinks where printed and the unprinted parts in puckering gives the crimp effect. By dyeing the cloth two tones are obtained as a darker shade is shown where the caustic soda appears (see crepeing and crimps)
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89 Dado
A printed cotton fabric used in Italy for wall hangings. The ground is cream or light buff, and the designs are developed in two colours. Woven about 56 ends and 64 picks per inch, 30's T., 36's W. -
90 Damasse
Originally an all-silk fabric with large designs developed in many colours. It was a heavy cloth with satin ground and weft figure. Imitations are now made with cotton warp and cotton or rayon weft. Used for dresses, and when very heavy for curtains, furnishings, dancing shoes, etc. The brocade effects are developed in colour or fancy weaves. Damasse Arabesque has arabesque designs. Damasse Brocat has gold and silver weft for figuring. Damasse Broche has flowered designs. Damasse Cachenir has palm leaf designs. Damasse Chine has printed silk warps. Damasse Egyptien has Egyptian designs. Damasse Jardinier is an expensive damask made with silk warp and fine mercerised cotton weft. The design is of detached flowers in colours. Many coloured wefts are used. -
91 Dimity
DIMITY (U.S.A.)A fabric woven on two shafts with faint cords, usually printed in small patterns on a white ground, but also sold white or dyed. Much used for ladies' or children's summer wear. A standard cloth is 37-in. grey, 34/5-in. finished. The cords are made by weaving two or three ends together as one, threaded through the same mail eye. ———————— This term was given by Indian traders to a cotton cloth of the fustian character, and usually figured with raised stripes, the stripes giving an appearance of embossing due to the thick weft floats. Today the dimity is understood to be a light cloth in the plain weave, but with cords lengthwise of the cloth. Made 38-in. wide, 70 ends and 64 picks per inch, 46's ground twist and 2/14's cords, 44's weft. -
92 Discharge Prints
These are fabrics that are first dyed in a solid colour, such as blue, dried without fixing the colour, then passed through a printing machine and printed with a chemical substance which acting upon the dye discharges or clears it from the fabric. When finished the cloth will have white figuring on a blue ground. -
93 Dunging
A finishing process for printed cotton fabric. The cloth is passed through solutions of phosphate of lime, phosphate of soda, etc., to remove superfluous mordant, and also to fix the mordant. -
94 Dutch Carpeting
A heavy jute fabric used for stair covering. Plain weave with warp face. Yarns are coloured to form stripes in the warp and black weft is always used, and they are printed in floral or geometric effects, in colours to blend with those of the woven stripes. They are close set in the reed and the warp covers the weft threads. -
95 Dyeing
The process of applying colour to yarns or fabrics. The material is first cleared of all dirt by boiling and washing (often the goods are bleached). They are then rinsed, then passed through the dye bath, rinsed again and dried. ————————RESIST PRINTING, or DYEINGIn this style of work the design is printed on the cloth with a substance that resists the dye into which the piece is placed. After dyeing and finishing the design shows white on a coloured ground. This process was first done on a commercial scale in 1802 by Robert Peel, Bury, but was practised prior to 1533, when specimens were found in Peru. ———————— A process in dyeing, consisting of the application of a chrome mordant to a previously dyed fabric (also termed " after treating ") -
96 Ecossaise
A plain weave all-silk check dress fabric. The squares are large and in several colours. Made in many qualities in tartan styles. A plain silk with printed check designs is also known by this term. -
97 Fangchow
A very light-weight silk fabric made in China, about 22-in. wide, 172/3 yards long, weighing 24 oz. It is degummed after being woven, plain weave and used dyed, printed or natural colour. -
98 Finishing
FINISHING (Gloves, knit)The operations used to prepare knitted glove fabric for manufacture and these are usually shrinking, dyeing, drying, sueding and pasting. ———————— The imparting of special characteristics to certain makes of cotton goods to give them a resemblance to linen, wool, or silk. Finishing is an extensive and complicated art; and the various methods of working are modified according to whether white, grey, coloured, or printed goods are under consideration. Many forms of treatment call for the provision of specially constructed machines. The several main operations that are variously called into use may be classified in the following manner, though order of procedure is necessarily dependent on circumstances: - Singeing, raising, shearing, brushing, steaming, starching, calendering (various forms) impregnating, breaking-down, damping, mangling, moireing, embossing, stentering and stretching, doubling, measuring, plaiting, marking, pressing and packing. Many of the single operations are likewise modified according to the quality of the cloth and the nature of the finish desired. For instance, that of calendering takes many forms from the comparatively simple process of exerting pressure on the cloth for giving a slightly smooth surface, to more complicated ones and to " schreinering " for a very high gloss. -
99 Furniture Twill
A printed cretonne fabric. -
100 Grisaille
A French woven all-silk dress fabric of the poplin type. Printed warp is used and coarse weft. A cotton warp imitation is made under the same name. The term is French for " grey mixture," and the fabrics have warp yams in black and white print.
См. также в других словарях:
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