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121 Damask
A cotton cloth woven with jacquard designs and used for table covers, napkins, curtains, upholstery cloth, etc. They can be reversible or one-sided only. Designs may be floral or geometrical. Yams 8's to 40's warp and weft. The ground and figure are bound by uniform weaves, generally twill or satin. The figure is developed by interchanging the warp and weft and the pattern so made up that the reflection of light on the threads brings out the effect. Linen and silk damasks only differ in material, as cotton damasks are made in very fine yarns. ———————— A fabric of single structure formed by two satin weaves with figure developed in warp and ground in weft satin weaves resulting in a design that shows very clearly as a warp figure on a weft ground. The figure can be made more prominent by using coloured yam. For table damasks a cotton warp with linen weft is often used. Damasks are made in numerous qualities, but all are figured in the five- or eight-shaft satin weaves. As early as the reign of Henry VIII a damask was a rich figured satin or linen and a damask was known in England as early as the 13th century. The name is derived from Damascus and is presumed to refer to the design and not the material. The finest linen damask is woven about 126 ends and 188 picks per inch from superior flax yarns. The finished sizes vary up to 90-in. wide, 6 yards long, and as a rule damask napkins and table tops can be obtained to match. Standard cloths of single damask are made: - Five-end satin, 60-ends and 56 picks per inch, 50's T., 35's lea W., boiled; 8-end satin, 80 ends and 76 picks per inch, 50's T., 60's lea W., boiled (see Double Damask) ———————— Originally an all-silk fabric with large designs developed in many colours. It was a heavy cloth with satin ground and weft figure. Imitations are now made with cotton warp and cotton or rayon weft. Used for dresses, and when very heavy for curtains, furnishings, dancing shoes, etc. The brocade effects are developed in colour or fancy weaves. Damasse Arabesque has arabesque designs. Damasse Brocat has gold and silver weft for figuring. Damasse Broche has flowered designs. Damasse Cachenir has palm leaf designs. Damasse Chine has printed silk warps. Damasse Egyptien has Egyptian designs. Damasse Jardinier is an expensive damask made with silk warp and fine mercerised cotton weft. The design is of detached flowers in colours. Many coloured wefts are used. -
122 Stoppa Tow
Or SPS is the Italian trade term for hemp scutching tow. " Strappatura " literally is really " pluckings " from the ends, but scutching tows are commercially classed as strappature puliti and strappature correnti, clean and ordinary. The pluckings are called " Teste di Canape " (heads of hemp) and are divided into " Teste Salte " (selected), and " Teste Correnta " (ordinary). The two classes strappature and heads of hemp are sometimes rescutched, the strappatures giving " Stoppa fortes " II, and heads of hemp " Stoppa fortes" I. " Stoppa fine " is hand dressers' tow. Assecature is a very superior tow produced in limited quantities. Hackled or dressed hemp is produced in Frallamaggiore, Agragoln. " Spontick " is the chief long line imported. -
123 Pintasilgo, Maria de Lourdes
(1930-2004)Catholic leader and social activist, chemical engineer, and politician. Born in Abrantes, to a middle class family, Pintasilgo had a distinguished record as a student in her Lisbon high school and at Lisbon's Instituto Superior Técnico where, in 1953, she graduated with an engineering degree in industrial chemistry. For seven years, she worked as an engineer for the Portuguese conglomerate Companhia União Fabril (CUF). A progressive Catholic who never formally joined a political party, Pintasilgo became a top lay Catholic leader in Portugal, as well as an influential, international Catholic leader in Catholic student, lay, and women's associations. She also attended Lisbon's Catholic University, where she became a student leader. During the final period of the dictatorship under Marcello Caetano, she held various government posts related to social welfare and women's affairs. In the first provisional government following the Revolution of 25 April 1974, Pintasilgo was secretary of state for social welfare and, by early 1975, became minister of social affairs. That same year, she became Portugal's first ambassador to the United Nations Educational and Social Organization.In July 1979, she became prime minister, following a call from President António Ramalho Eanes, and served in a caretaker role until January 1980. During her brief term, she worked to improve social security coverage and health and social welfare. She was Portugal's first woman prime minister and, following Britain's Margaret Thatcher, was Europe's second woman to serve in that office. In 1986, she ran as an independent for the presidency of the Republic but was unsuccessful. In 1987, she began a two-year term following election as a member of the European Parliament. She died suddenly and unexpectedly in July 2004.Historical dictionary of Portugal > Pintasilgo, Maria de Lourdes
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124 endorsement
1 ( of opinion) approbation f (of de) ; ( of candidate) appui m (of à) ; ( of decision) sanction f (of à propos de) ; ( of claim) approbation f (of de) ; ( of cheque) endossement m ; expenses claims should be submitted to your superior for endorsement les notes de frais doivent être portées à votre supérieur pour être approuvées ;2 Aut he has had two endorsements for speeding ≈ il a perdu des points pour excès de vitesse. -
125 school
school [sku:l]1 noun(a) (educational establishment) école f, établissement m scolaire; (secondary school → to age 15) collège m; (→ 15 to 18) lycée m; (classes) école f, classe f, classes fpl, cours mpl;∎ to go to school aller à l'école ou au collège ou au lycée;∎ to be at or in school être à l'école ou en classe;∎ to send one's children to school envoyer ses enfants à l'école;∎ parents have a duty to send their children to school les parents ont le devoir d'envoyer leurs enfants à l'école ou de scolariser leurs enfants;∎ what are you going to do when you leave school? qu'est-ce que tu comptes faire quand tu auras quitté l'école ou fini ta scolarité?;∎ I was at school with him j'étais en classe avec lui, c'était un de mes camarades de classe;∎ he's still at school il va encore à l'école;∎ to go skiing/sailing with the school ≃ aller en classe de neige/de mer;∎ television for schools télévision f scolaire;∎ there's no school today il n'y a pas (d')école ou il n'y a pas classe aujourd'hui;∎ school starts at nine (primary) l'école ou la classe commence à neuf heures; (secondary) les cours commencent à neuf heures;∎ school starts back next week c'est la rentrée (scolaire ou des classes) la semaine prochaine;∎ see you after school on se voit après l'école ou la classe;∎ the whole school is or are invited toute l'école est invitée;∎ figurative the school of life l'école f de la vie;∎ I went to the school of hard knocks j'ai été à rude école(b) (institute) école f, académie f(c) University (department) département m, institut m; (faculty) faculté f; (college) collège m; American (university) université f;∎ London School of Economics = institut d'études économiques de l'université de Londres;∎ she's at law school elle fait des études de droit, elle fait son droit(d) (of art, literature) école f;∎ figurative a doctor of the old school un médecin de la vieille école ou de la vieille garde;∎ the Florentine/classical school l'école florentine/classique(e) (training session) stage m;∎ a two-day school for doctors un stage de deux jours pour les médecins∎ the Schools l'École f, la scolastique(h) (of fish, porpoises) banc m(trip, doctor) scolaire;∎ I'm not allowed to stay up late on school nights je n'ai pas le droit de me coucher tard quand il y a école le lendemain;∎ British to do the school run emmener les enfants à l'école (à tour de rôle)∎ to be schooled in monetary/military matters être rompu aux questions monétaires/militaires;∎ she schooled herself to listen to what others said elle a appris à écouter (ce que disent) les autres;∎ she is well schooled in diplomacy elle a une bonne formation diplomatique(b) (send to school) envoyer à l'école, scolariser►► school age âge m scolaire;school board conseil m d'établissement;Radio & Television schools broadcasting émissions fpl scolaires;school buildings bâtiments mpl scolaires;school bus car m de ramassage scolaire;school of dance, dancing school académie f ou école f de danse;school day journée f scolaire ou d'école;school dinners repas mpl servis à la cantine (de l'école);school district = aux États-Unis, autorité locale décisionnaire dans le domaine de l'enseignement primaire et secondaire;school fees frais mpl de scolarité;school friend camarade mf de classe ou d'école, familiar copain (copine) m,f de classe ou d'école;British school governor membre m du conseil de gestion de l'école;school holiday jour m de congé scolaire;∎ tomorrow is a school holiday il n'y a pas école ou classe ou cours demain;∎ during the school holidays pendant les vacances ou congés scolaires;school hours heures fpl de classe ou d'école;∎ in school hours pendant les heures de classe;∎ out of school hours en dehors des heures de classe;school magazine journal m de l'école;school of medicine faculté f de médecine;school milk = lait offert aux élèves dans le primaire;school of motoring auto-école f, école f de conduite;school report bulletin m scolaire;school of thought école f de pensée; figurative théorie f;∎ one school of thought argues that this is due to genetic factors il existe une théorie selon laquelle ceci a une origine génétique;school tie = cravate propre à une école et faisant partie de l'uniforme;school uniform uniforme m scolaire;school year année f scolaire;∎ my school years ma scolarité, mes années fpl d'école;∎ the school year runs from September to July l'année scolaire dure de septembre à juillet -
126 Byron, Ada Augusta, Countess of Lovelace
SUBJECT AREA: Electronics and information technology[br]b. 12 December 1815 Piccadilly Terrace, London, Englandd. 23 November 1852 East Horsley, Surrey, England[br]English mathematician, active in the early development of the calculating machine.[br]Educated by a number of governesses in a number of houses from Yorkshire to Ealing, she was the daughter of a hypochondriac mother and her absent, separated, husband, the poet George Gordon, Lord Byron. As a child a mysterious and undiagnosed illness deprived her "of the use of her limbs" and she was "obliged to use crutches". The complaint was probably psychosomatic as it cleared up when she was 17 and was about to attend her first court ball. On 8 July 1835 she was married to William King, 1st Earl of Lovelace. She later bore two sons and a daughter. She was an avid student of science and in particular mathematics, in the course of which Charles Babbage encouraged her. In 1840 Babbage was invited to Turin to present a paper on his analytical engine. In the audience was a young Italian military engineer, L.F.Menabrea, who was later to become a general in Garibaldi's army. The paper was written in French and published in 1842 in the Bibliothèque Universelle de Genève. This text was translated into English and published with extensive annotations by the Countess of Lovelace, appearing in Taylor's Scientific Memoirs. The Countess thoroughly understood and appreciated Babbage's machine and the clarity of her description was so great that it is undoubtedly the best contemporary account of the engine: even Babbage recognized the Countess's description as superior to his own. Ada often visited Babbage in his workshop and listened to his explanations of the structure and use of his engines. She shared with her husband a love of horse-racing and, with Babbage, tried to develop a system for backing horses. Babbage and the Earl apparently stopped their efforts in time, but the Countess lost so heavily that she had to pawn all her family jewels. Her losses at the 1851 Derby alone amounted to £3,200, while borrow-ing a further £1,800 from her husband. This situation involved her in being blackmailed. She became an opium addict due to persistent pain from gastritis, intermittent anorexia and paroxys-mal tachycardia. Charles Babbage was always a great comfort to her, not only for their shared mathematical interests but also as a friend helping in all manner of small services such as taking her dead parrot to the taxidermist. She died after a protracted illness, thought to be cancer, at East Horsley Towers.[br]Further ReadingD.Langley Moore, 1977, Ada, Countess of Lovelace: Byron's Legitimate Daughter, John Murray.P.Morrison and E.Morrison, 1961, Charles Babbage and His Calculating Engine, Dover Publications.Biographical history of technology > Byron, Ada Augusta, Countess of Lovelace
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127 Girard, Philippe de
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. 1775 Franced. 1845[br]French developer of a successful flax-heckling machine for the preparation of fibres for power-spinning.[br]Early drawing and spinning processes failed to give linen yarn the requisite fineness and homogeneity. In 1810 Napoleon offered a prize of a million francs for a successful flax-spinning machine as part of his policy of stimulating the French textile industries. Spurred on by this offer, Girard suggested three improvements. He was too late to win the prize, but his ideas were patented in England in 1814, although not under his own name. He proposed that the fibres should be soaked in a very hot alkaline solution both before drawing and immediately before they went to the spindles. The actual drawing was to be done by passing the dried material through combs or gills that moved alternately; gill drawing was taken up in England in 1816. His method of wet spinning was never a commercial success, but his processes were adopted in part and developed in Britain and spread to Austria, Poland and France, for his ideas were essentially good and produced a superior product. The successful power-spinning of linen thread from flax depended primarily upon the initial processes of heckling and drawing. The heckling of the bundles or stricks of flax, so as to separate the long fibres of "line" from the shorter ones of "tow", was extremely difficult to mechanize, for each strick had to be combed on both sides in turn and then in the reverse direction. It was to this problem that Girard next turned his attention, inventing a successful machine in 1832 that subsequently was improved in England. The strick was placed between two vertical sheets of combs that moved opposite to each other, depositing the tow upon a revolving cylinder covered with a brush at the bottom of the machine, while the holder from which the strick was suspended moved up and down so as to help the teeth to penetrate deeper into the flax. The tow was removed from the cylinder at the bottom of the machine and taken away to be spun like cotton. The long line fibres were removed from the top of the machine and required further processing if the yarn was to be uniform.When N.L.Sadi Carnot's book Réflexions sur la puissance motrice du feu, was published in 1824, Girard made a favourable report on it.[br]Further ReadingM.Daumas (ed.), 1968, Histoire générale des techniques, Vol. III: L'Expansion duMachinisme, Paris.C.Singer (ed.), 1958, A History of'Technology, Vol. IV, Oxford: Clarendon Press. T.K.Derry and T.I.Williams, 1960, A Short History of Technology from the EarliestTimes to AD 1900, Oxford.W.A.McCutcheon, 1966–7, "Water power in the North of Ireland", Transactions of the Newcomen Society 39 (discusses the spinning of flax and mentions Girard).RLH -
128 Raky, Anton
SUBJECT AREA: Mining and extraction technology[br]b. 5 January 1868 Seelenberg, Taunus, Germanyd. 22 August 1943 Berlin, Germany[br]German inventor of rapid percussion drilling, entrepreneur in the exploration business.[br]While apprenticed at the drilling company of E. Przibilla, Raky already called attention by his reflections towards developing drilling methods and improving tools. Working as a drilling engineer in Alsace, he was extraordinarily successful in applying an entire new hydraulic boring system in which the rod was directly connected to the chisel. This apparatus, driven by steam, allowed extremely rapid percussions with very low lift.With some improvements, his boring rig drilled deep holes at high speed and at least doubled the efficiency of the methods hitherto used. His machine, which was also more reliable, was secured by a patent in 1895. With borrowed capital, he founded the Internationale Bohrgesellschaft in Strasbourg in the same year, and he began a career in the international exploration business that was unequalled as well as breathtaking. Until 1907 the total depth of the drillings carried out by the company was 1,000 km.Raky's rapid drilling was unrivalled and predominant until improved rotary drilling took over. His commercial sense in exploiting the technical advantages of his invention by combining drilling with producing the devices in his own factory at Erkelenz, which later became the headquarters of the company, and in speculating on the concessions for the explored deposits made him by far superior to all of his competitors, who were provoked into contests which they generally lost. His flourishing company carried out drilling in many parts of the world; he became the initiator of the Romanian oil industry and his extraordinary activities in exploring potash and coal deposits in different parts of Germany, especially in the Ruhr district, provoked the government in 1905 into stopping granting claims to private companies. Two years later, he was forced to withdraw from his holding company because of his restless and eccentric character. He turned to Russia and, during the First World War, he was responsible for the reconstruction of the destroyed Romanian oilfields. Thereafter, partly financed by mining companies, he continued explorations in several European countries, and in Germany he was pioneering again with exploring oilfields, iron ore and lignite deposits which later grew in economic value. Similar to Glenck a generation before, he was a daring entrepreneur who took many risks and opened new avenues of exploration, and he was constantly having to cope with a weak financial position, selling concessions and shares, most of them to Preussag and Wintershall; however, this could not prevent his business from collapse in 1932. He finally gave up drilling in 1936 and died a poor man.[br]Principal Honours and DistinctionsDr-Ing. (Hon.) Bergakademie Clausthal 1921.Further ReadingG.P.R.Martin, 1967, "Hundert Jahre Anton Raky", Erdöl-Erdgas-Zeitschrift, 83:416–24 (a detailed description).D.Hoffmann, 1959, 150 Jahre Tiefbohrungen in Deutschland, Vienna and Hamburg: 32– 4 (an evaluation of his technologial developments).WK
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