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61 Alcyonne
A French made drapery cloth, woven in a lo-end warp satin weave from single warp and weft of varying colours. Qualities vary from 150 to 200 ends and 80 to 100 picks per inch. -
62 Beaver (Castor)
An overcoating cloth with one face sheared, heavily milled and nap-raised finish. It has a soft handle, and made of fine-grade wool as an imitation of beaver's fur. Now used for making hats, uniforms, etc. Two warps and two wefts are used of good quality wool. The weave is the 4-end sateen, two face and one back picks. A cloth woven 100-in, would be finished to about 56-in. wide. The finishing process is a special one, and the fabric shrunk considerably during finishing in both width and length. Many imitations have a cotton warp and shoddy weft. -
63 Bull-Hide
BULL-HIDE, or REFORMERA very heavy cotton fabric woven on fustian looms. It has a warp face with a twill weave. Each warp-end floats over six picks. The cloth is pile finished. Much used for cheap hats (see Reformer) -
64 Mayo Twill
A weave largely used in the woollen trade, on 8-ends and 8 picks. The diagram shows the weave
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See Campbell Twill. An 8-end twill weave, used principally for wool and worsted fabrics.
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65 Casement Repp
A special heavy repp fabric also used for curtains, hangings, etc. Usually with three to four times more ends than picks, and both plain dyed, stripes and jacquard effects. Both sides of the cloth are alike. Two warps are used and a standard cloth is made 132 X 48, 2/60's and 2/20's warps, 16's or 2/40's weft. The 2/60's warp is mercerised yarn and denting is two ends 2/60's and one end 2/120's. The coarse warp is loosely weighted and the finer tightly weighted, the fabrics are rather expensive, but always hang well and wear well. -
66 Comboys
Coloured shawls woven in Colne and Radcliffe. Made in checks and stripes with fancy headings at each end of the shawl. The border at each side is made by cramming the warp in the reed, generally four double ends in one dent. The body of the cloth is a matt weave. Many qualities are woven, ranging from 24's to 34's warp and weft, 44 to 52 picks per inch, and varying numbers of ends per inch. -
67 Cord Tyre Fabric
A cotton cloth for motor tyres devised to eliminate the chafing action of threads crossing each other, as obtains in the " builder " fabric. The cloth is made with strong corded threads for the warp, with as little weft as possible. The picks vary from 4 to 10 per inch. The warp threads are laid parallel and vary from 22 to 25 per inch. The weft is a single end of 21's to 23's with 10 to 16 turns per inch and is only intended to retain the warp threads in parallel order. The warp takes all the strain, and is composed of two-ply threads, counts 23's, 5 X 3 ends twisted right, left, right. The single yarn is 16 to 20 turns, first doubling 5 ends up, 16 to 20 turns, and the finishing twisting 15 ends (5 X 3) is also 16 to 20 turns per inch. These are the " cord tyres " of commerce (see Builder Fabric and Breaker) -
68 Cotton Back Satins
A super lining fabric, made from a silk warp and combed Egyptian cotton weft, in the 8-shaft satin weave, giving a warp face of silk and a weft back of cotton. Woven about 190 end and 80 picks per inch. 90 denier silk, 60's to 80's cotton weft, 37-in. cloth gives 35/36-in. finished.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Cotton Back Satins
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69 Doeskin
A fine cloth made from the best botany wool.. The warp is set very closely in the reed, 5-end warp satin weave. The twill is not visible owing to the closeness of the weave, and a very smooth, level face is given to the cloth. A soft dress finish is applied. The cloth is shrunk about 33 per cent in, width, thus one woven 86-in. in the loom gives 58-in. finished. A fair sample is made 64 ends and 60 picks per inch, 19's/18's West of England yarns. ———————— The skin of the deer and antelope, and is now rarely seen. Sheepskins finished as chamois leather are now sometimes sold under this name. -
70 Dungarees
Cotton cloths, four-end twill weave, warp face, made from dyed warp and weft of heavy counts. Some qualities have a white or grey stripe down each selvedge. Really a denim with coloured weft instead of grey, and a blue warp. Made about 32-in. wide, 80 ends and 64 picks per inch, 16's T., 18's W. (see also Blue Dungaree and Dowgaree) -
71 Embroideries
A fine linen fabric of plain weave, one end in a dent, and used as ground cloth for embroidery work. Cotton yarns of super quality are also used in many weights. Many cambric qualities can be termed, embroidery cloths, such as 45-in., 80 ends and 72 picks per inch, 46's T., 42's W. A linen embroidery cloth that is very popular is woven in the 8 X 8 mock leno weave. -
72 Flat
A manufacturing term which means that two picks have been woven together as one in the same shed and is a fault in weaving. A similar fault occurs in the warp in a plain cloth, when one end is missing two ends weaving alike come together and form a flat. -
73 Grenada
A black dyed cotton warp with alpaca, mohair, or English lustre weft, used for dress purposes. The weave is a 5-end weft twill 3 down and 2 up, as shown at E (See Alpaca). A popular quality is made to finish 50-in. (56-in. grey) from 2/40's black cotton warp, 12's mohair weft, and woven in design. Set 76 ends and 52 picks per inch. Piece-dyed in all colours for dress purposes. (Cross-dyeing).
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74 Grenadine Satin
A lining material in the 5-end satin weave, made from silk warp and hard-spun cotton weft, both yam dyed. One quality is made 184 ends and 76 picks per inch, 15 denier warp and 60's Egyptian weft. -
75 Hair Cloth
A heavy twilled cloth containing wool waste and some calf hair. A nap is raised by gigging. Used for carriage rugs. ———————— This fabric is woven from very strong three-fold cotton warp and horsehair weft. Other material, such as linen, has been used for the warp. Usually made with about 44 ends per inch, and 80 to 100 picks per inch. The weave is usually the 5-end satin. Horse hair is not dyed, and the hair used is generally black, and is cut from both the tails and manes. The lengths vary from 30-in. to 46-in., and a single hair forms one pick. A special loom is used, fitted with mechanism for picking up the hairs and drawing them one by one into the shed. The shuttle for doing this is equipped with a pair of nippers. There is a rough fringe of hair at each selvedge. The cloth is very stiff or wiry and is used for coat linings. Formerly the cloth was also used for upholstering chairs and couches, and some is used today for this purpose (see Cilicium).
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76 Hammersmith Carpets
HAMMERSMITH CARPETS, or RUGSEnglish-made tufted fabric composed of cotton warp and weft for ground, and woollen pile weft in 13/4-in. lengths, 25 tufts per inch of 5/8-in. pile. The warp is 16 ends as one, and three such compound threads are twisted together and woven 10 per inch. The weft is thick cotton yarn of four threads as one, five picks per inch. One pick is inserted after each row of tufts. As the pile yarn has four threads of 5 skein as one, there are 25 X 8 = 200 ends of pile yarn per square inch. The rugs are fringed at each end.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Hammersmith Carpets
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77 Rugs
HAMMERSMITH CARPETS, or RUGSEnglish-made tufted fabric composed of cotton warp and weft for ground, and woollen pile weft in 13/4-in. lengths, 25 tufts per inch of 5/8-in. pile. The warp is 16 ends as one, and three such compound threads are twisted together and woven 10 per inch. The weft is thick cotton yarn of four threads as one, five picks per inch. One pick is inserted after each row of tufts. As the pile yarn has four threads of 5 skein as one, there are 25 X 8 = 200 ends of pile yarn per square inch. The rugs are fringed at each end. -
78 Harris Tweed
A fabric defined for the purpose of the trade mark of the Harris Tweed Association as " tweed, hand-spun, hand-woven and dyed and finished by hand in the islands of Lewis, Harris, Uist, Barra, and their several purtenances, and all known as the Outer Hebrides." It is a loosely woven cloth from hill and mountain pure virgin wools. During finishing the cloths are dried in loft", heated with peat fires, which gives the peculiar odour noticed in the cloth. About 18 to 22 end and picks per inch and 120 yards per ounce warp and weft (see Harris Yarn). Also called Hebridean Cloth. The Board of Trade further provide that "Wherever the Harris Tweed trade mark is used there shall be added in legible characters the words ' Woven in Harris ' or ' Woven in Lewis ' or ' Woven in Uist ' or ' Woven in Barra,' as the case may be, and for the purpose of distinction there shall also be added the word "hand-spun" in the case of tweeds made entirely from hand-spun yam".
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79 Headings
In the cotton trade each piece of cloth has two headings composed of coloured or tinsel weft. There is one heading at the beginning and another at the finishing end of the piece. Headings vary from single lines of colour consisting of two or more picks to elaborate cross-over stripes. -
80 Iro Momem
A plain weave cotton cloth woven about 31-in. wide, 84 ends and 72 picks per inch, 34's T., 32's W., piece-dyed. Also woven three-end twill and piece-dyed to imitate the Nankeen cloth. Both styles are woven-in. Japan.
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