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21 Crimps
A plain weave cloth woven from two beams, usually differently weighted, and with different counts of yarn. The finer warp is tight and the coarser slack. This difference in counts and tension causes the coarse parts to crimp and become prominent. Coloured yams are often used. Many qualities ate made. One make has 80 ends and 60 picks per inch, 32's T. and 2/60's colour, 30's W. A fine cotton crimp in stripe form, and a check crimp are illustrated. Crimps are also produced from botany and mohair yarns in many qualities, the crimp effect being obtained through the different shrinkage of the two yarns
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22 Hairline
The true hairline is a colour and weave effect in which fine lines one thread or one pick wide occur lengthwise or crosswise of the fabric. In the plain weave with the warp and weft both arranged one black, one white, alternately, lines can be made to run lengthwise or crosswise. By modifying the weave, checks can be made on the same principle. The worsted hairline is a popular trousering and made in many weights. One quality is 68-in. wide in the loom, 2/26's T., 2/30's W., both worsted. The shrinkage is about 15 per cent (see also Pinhead Checks)
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