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1 Brassiere Cloth
A fabric used for the corset trade, woven on dobby or jacquard looms, from super quality yarns and usually with stripes in the warp, from rayon or 2/40's mercerised cotton yarn. When rayon is used, the designs are such that no long floats are shown. A standard quality is 36-in. grey, 84 X 76 per inch, 22's weft, 28's cotton, 150 denier rayon (or 2/40's mercerised for 150 denier), piece-dyed in pink and other light colours. Another cloth shipped to U.S.A. is made 37-in., 92 X 68, 20's/20's super American yarns with rayon stripes and plain stripes alternating, 1/2-in. to 1-in. in width. -
2 Corselette Cloth
This is actually a brassiere cloth, but woven about 18-in. wide, with a broad selvedge as illustrated. The warping is two threads cotton and one thread rubber covered with a fine cotton thread. The take-up of the cotton ends is 100 per cent. Coarse rayon coloured weft is used, generally pink, but cream and pale blue are sometimes seen. One quality has 30 ends 2/24's cotton and 15 ends of rubber per inch, with 50 picks of 450 denier rayon. Dobby effects are used for figuring
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3 Lace Stripe Cloth
A cloth with plain weave combined with mock leno stripes and made on dobby looms. Made with 64-ends per inch of 40's T., and 52-picks per inch of 34's weft. Sometimes two-fold warp is used for the figuring. -
4 Lahore Cloth
A term given to a dress fabric made from fine cashmere wool in many small dobby weaves. Piece-dyed and made in many qualities. One example has 84 ends and 66 picks per inch of 54's T., and 48's W., worsted yarns. -
5 Parisian Cloth
A 19th century English fabric made of cotton warp and worsted weft and woven generally with dobby figures. -
6 кареточная ткань
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7 кареточная ткань
Русско-английский политехнический словарь > кареточная ткань
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8 кареточная ткань
Engineering: dobby cloth -
9 Bedford Cords
Fabrics having cords or ribs in the direction of the warp produced by interweaving the weft in plain or twill order with alternate groups of warp threads. The ribs may be emphasised by the addition of wadding or stuffing warp threads. Generally woven in dobby looms. All cotton, all wool or mixed. A standard cotton cloth is made 36-in., 144 X 100 per inch, 40's/50's, with 20's wadding ends. The diagram gives the weave. When the face ends X are weaving plain in one section, the face ends are lifted in the other section, this is for two picks, and then the weave is reversed. The plain ends are separated in the reed.
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Another cloth is made 30-in. from 24's warp, 36's weft, with every seventh cord made from coloured yarn. A heavy cloth is made for use as riding breeches in many qualities. Also made with wool yams. The illustration (A) shows a fancy Bedford cord for dress goods. There are ten padding cords to the inch, as shown by the broader cord stripes. These dress goods styles are made from a two-fold warp and single weft, all Egyptian yams. Fabric B is a three-colour fancy weave.
The term " London Cord " is given to a heavy cotton Bedford Cord, woven with a 2 X 1 twill face. One quality is 88 X 80 per inch, 16/20's. Frequently padding ends are used to give prominence to the cords. Bedford Cord shirtings are made from the 144 X 110 cloth, usually 33/34-in. and with coloured stripes
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10 Bags (Tubular Cloths)
Pockets, pillow cases (see Pillow Cloth). Are all types of double cloths, usually woven with tappets, similar to Smalley's, or on a dobby loom. A special loom is now made for these fabrics. If one bag only is woven in the width, 4 healds are required; if several in the width, then 2 extra or 4 extra shafts would be needed to weave the plain between the bags. The warp requires special controlling, as greater tension is necessary when the bottom of the bag is being woven. A standard bag cloth is woven 96 X 96, 14's/14's, all American yams. This "gives 48 ends and picks in each fold. The bottom of the bag being woven by a special motion. Widths are 14-in. to about 24-in. A pillow case cloth is made 108-ends, 4 in a dent, 120 picks, 24's warp, 16's weft. Ends and picks are total of both folds.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Bags (Tubular Cloths)
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11 Coutil
A strong herringbone twill cloth used for corset making. A standard cloth is 34-in., 100 yards, 96 ends and 64 picks per inch, 22's T., 22's W., 31-lb., and in 56-in. width 511/2-lb., woven in a dobby loom on six shafts. The cloth is dyed drab or French grey. Tinted yarn is used for some cloths, generally French or silver grey. A large trade has developed in coutils made from ring yarns, dyed pink. These yam-dyed fabrics are very firm and possess good wearing properties. Fig. A illustrates the weave on 16 ends and Fig. B on 32 ends. One quality is made 124 ends and 100 picks per inch, 2/80's warp, 2/100's weft (see also Broche Coutils)
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12 Pique
Sometimes abbreviated to P.K. See full pique and half pique. A type of seaming for gloves. ———————— Dobby cloths composed of two warps and two wefts. The face warp is lightly weighted, and weaves plain with the face weft. The back warp is heavily weighted, and stitches through the plain face cloth, according to a prearranged design. At the stitching points the face cloth is pulled down, causing the face to form an embossed surface. The second weft is used as wadding to make the raised figuring more pronounced. The face warp and weft are usually finer than those used for stitching and wadding and in the proportion of 2: 1, such as 2 ends 32's face 1 end 24's back. A popular cloth is made 40-in., 40/45 yards, 100 face 32's super Egyptian, 50 back 2/60's super American, 120 face picks 42's super Egyptian, and 64 wadding picks 18's super American. The finer piques are rather expensive. -
13 Float
There is also the float that is not required and which is a most objectionable fault in any cloth. It is often caused by careless weaving, although inferior yarn is very liable to produce this fault. End breakages, incorrect shedding, faulty action of the shedding mechanism, wrongly pegged dobby lags, wrongly cut jacquard cards, etc., are prolific causes of floats. ———————— Warp or weft threads which pass over the threads of the opposite series are said to be floated, and in twill, satin crepe and other weaves the length of the float is named in terms of the number of threads the floating thread passes over between two intersections. In very many cloths the sole means of figuring is the floating of the warp or weft according to a defined and prearranged plan. -
14 Galateas
Coloured stripe drills, the warp being all coloured yam. Most galateas are made with the 3-shaft twill weave, though the 4-shaft twill weave has been used, as well as dobby spots. Many qualities are made. A good sample is 27-in., 98 ends and 72 picks per inch, 24's T., 16's W. The colours are fast to washing, since the cloth is used for skirtings, boys' suits, nurse's iniforms, etc. Red, white and blue are the principal colours in use, although brown, drab and black are seen in some ranges. The cloth is similar to a denim, but lighter make. -
15 Panama Zephyrs
Dobby cloths on 12 to 16 shafts in coloured stripes and small figured effects. Some are bleached and some are dyed in light colours, such as cream, yellow, light blue, etc. Shipped to South America, Egypt, Persia, etc., 261/2-in., 100 yards, 72 ends and 72 picks per inch, warp 36's white, 30's colour, 32's weft all cotton. Another cloth is made 76 ends and 52 picks per inch, 32's warp, 16's weft, with 2/60's colour wrap. This cloth is usually shipped in large ranges of colours and designs.
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16 Diggle, Squire
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]fl. c.1845 England[br]English inventor of a mechanized drop box for shuttles on power looms.[br]Robert Kay improved his father John's flying shuttle by inventing the drop box, in which up to four shuttles could be stored one below the other. The weaver's left hand controlled levers and catches to raise or lower the drop box in order to bring the appropriate shuttle into line with the shuttle race on the slay. The shuttle could then be driven across the loom, leaving its particular type or colour of weft. On the earliest power looms of Edmund Cartwright in 1785, and for many years later, it was possible to use only one shuttle. In 1845 Squire Diggle of Bury, Lancashire, took out a patent for mechanizing the drop box so that different types or colours of weft could be woven without the weaver attending to the shuttles. He used an endless chain on which plates of different heights could be fixed to raise the boxes to the required height; later this would be operated by either the dobby or Jacquard pattern-selecting mechanisms. He took out further patents for improvements to looms. One, in 1854, was for taking up the cloth with a positive motion. Two more, in 1858, improved his drop box mechanism: the first was for actually operating the drop box, while the second was for tappet chains which operated the timing for raising the boxes.[br]Bibliography1845, British patent no. 10,462 (mechanized drop box). 1854, British patent no. 1,100 (positive uptake of cloth) 1858, British patent no. 2,297 (improved drop-box operation). 1858, British patent no. 2,704 (tappet chains).Further ReadingA.Barlow, 1878, The History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power, London (provides drawings of Diggle's invention).C.Singer (ed.), 1958, A History of Technology, Vol. IV, Oxford: Clarendon Press.See also: Kay, JohnRLH -
17 Bordati
An Italian-made muslin-type of fabric used for dresses and in some parts of the East as a loin cloth. Has a cotton warp and silk weft. Usually with small dobby spots and buds, or in stripes. -
18 Brilliante
Originally a brocade with a soft finish, made from cotton yarns. Today they are also made on dobby looms. The designs are simple spot effects. The cloth is bleached or dyed. A large quantity is shipped to Egypt, India and other Eastern markets; 28-in. to 30-in. wide, 14-lb. for 105 yards, 56-ends, 52 picks, 36's warp, 24's weft, 12 to 14 staves
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19 Card Cylinder
The device on a dobby or jacquard machine, round which the design cards operate The cylinder presents the cards in accurate rotation to produce the design on the cloth. -
20 Crepon
A crepe-like structure obtained in several ways, such as (1) a combination of material; (2) combination of weaves; (3) combination of material and weaves; (4) by special chemical processes. Crepons are true crepes because the fabric when finished is crinkled. The terms " crepe " and " crepon " are now used for any fabric of the crepe style, produced by any of the four methods given above. The crepes made for shipping to India, China, South America and other markets in cotton are produced by methods (2) in dobby looms and from 6 to 16 shafts used. Standard makes are as follows: - 34-in. 120 yards, 58 X 62, 34's T., 16's W., 291/2-lb., 12 shafts; 35-in. 120 yard, 68 X 68, 36's T., 22's W., 28-lb., 8 shafts; 56-in. 120 yard, 72 X 76, 36's T., 24's W., 46-lb. 8 shafts. Wool crepons are made with mohair for the face warp and weft and botany for the back warp and weft. As botany shrinks more than mohair the crepe effect is obtained when the cloth is finished
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